border crossing

We cleaned up the apartment and packed and left at about 10am. Right now, we’re sitting in the line-up at customs to get into Poland. We got scammed for 150 hryvny ($32 Cdn) for the “fast” line-up. Eugene says that often these scammers are quite honest, but today there wasn’t much of a line-up. Seems the customs officers all took lunch at the same time though.

We stopped at a gas station just before the border. The bathroom was so spotless and modern that it would put many Canadian public bathrooms to shame.

In a few metres, we’ll not be in Ukraine any more. What a wonderful country it is.

We arrived at this border at 12:19. It is currently 2:15 and we’re still waiting. We’ve eaten cheese on bread as a lunch – leftovers from the fridge – and it was pretty tasty. We can see Poland. We can almost touch it. Now if only the cars would move.

Our wait at the border ended up being three hours and four minutes in total. When we finally got onto the highway, the first thing we noticed was that the highway was well-maintained. No potholes. And there were lots of road signs. Very well-organized and easy to get around. We drove to Sanok, admiring the scenery as we went. It looked just like Ukraine, but more prosperous and no litter. This is how I imagine Ukraine could look in ten years. It already looks so much nicer than 2001, but Poland is beautiful. I didn’t expect to like it. I had no expectations.

We checked in to an absolutely beautiful hotel in Sanok called Hotel Jagiellowksa which was on the main drag. Eugene asked a local for directions, and was told to go in the exact opposite of where the hotel was. We finally got there, drove through the very narrow opening to the parking lot and checked in. The room was lovely! Two double beds, hardwood floors, open and airy. A small but functional bathroom and the water pressure in the shower was so good it could practically take your skin off. There was a sofa and two ottoman chairs. Very clean, spacious airy, comfortable.

We walked up the hill to downtown and tried several bank machines for money but we were having the same problem that I had had in Lviv the day before. Eugene was able to get money out on his card so we were able to have dinner at a restaurant off the main square. We were able to find a machine on the way back that would give us money, so we paid him back. Whew, was getting worried about that!

Differences between Ukraine and Poland:

Beer is ubiquitous in Ukraine; ice cream and cake in Poland. The girls where stilettos and trashy clothes in Ukraine; in Poland they look more like us. Ukraine has potholes, trash, poor signage; Poland has the opposite. In both places, the houses look the same, although Poland has a larger proportion of prosperous ones. In Poland, apartment balconies and front steps are decorated with bright pots of flowers. Lots of flowers in Ukraine too, but in gardens.

It was our first early night in a long time. After supper, we had tea and cake at the hotel restaurant.

 

 

Sanok, Poland

If you ever go to Sanok, do stay at Hotel Jagiellonski. Natalia and I shared a beautiful room with hardwood floors and comfortable double beds, a huge airy window, a sofa and two ottoman chairs. The room was 160 zlotys a night, which worked out to $73, or less than $40 for each of us. Eugene’s room was 130 zlotys and it looked very nice too, although of course smaller. Breakfast was included, and it was huge and yummy. And they have free wireless internet.

After breakfast, we walked up the hill to the main part of town to get some maps from the tourist bureau and also to get more money from the bank machine that worked for our cards.

Our first stop was an outdoor folk museum. This part of Poland was Ukrainian until Operation Wisla after WWII, when all of the Ukrainians in the area were deported to the Soviet Union. The folk museum displayed traditional houses and churches from that earlier era. It was interesting to see and touch artifacts that we had just read about. For example, Natalia had heard about wooden cemetery markers. They had some here:

We were both struck by the beauty and elegance of the cemetery marker. Later, when we were in the museum gift shop, we noted several carved figures similar to the ones used in the markers.

Our next stop was a small village close to the Ukrainian-Polish border. We saw more of these carvings:
Something else that we noticed as we were driving through this rural area was ornate road markers every half kilometer or so. Natalia speculates that these are markers commemorating the end of serfdom from Austro-Hungarian times. I would be curious to find out more information about them. They’re beautiful:


We found it easy to navigate in rural Poland. Everything is well marked and many people speak English. Our next stop was Krakow, so we backtracked and drove through Sanok again and had an early supper at Hotel Jagiellowska and then continued on to Krakow.

We got into town quite late at night and the street we needed to take to get to our hotel was under construction. Hotel Wielopole is just a few steps away from the city centre of Krakow and so very convenient. It was the most expensive place on our entire trip, so Eugene had booked himself into a hostel to save us money. Our room was clean and comfortable, but tiny. We met Eugene the next day at the hotel for breakfast.