This was a day of complete travel. I got up at 5am and was picked up by airport transportation at 5:50am for a 7:25 flight out of Hamilton. I had a three-plus hour flight to Calgary, and a three hour stopover there, then on to Edmonton, a three hour wait there, and then a 5 hour bus drive to Jasper. During my stopover in Calgary, I met Calgary author Anne Meticosh for conversation and breakfast. At Edmonton Airport, I met with Ron Baker, a storyteller who is also touring Alberta this week. We had an early supper. By the time I got to my hotel room, I was thankful for a shower and a comfy bed. They put me on the second floor and there was no elevator. Normally this wouldn’t have been a problem, but I have a torn meniscus and my knee is fragile. It was quite the challenge getting my luggage up the stairs.
The bus ride was a highlight of the trip. It was actually a van with Sundog tours and John, the driver, was a font of historical info about Jasper. When he found out that my grandfather was interned at Jasper in WWI and that’s why I wanted to start my book tour here, he offered to take me to the site of the internment camp the next day.
Saturday November 15th, 1:30-2:30pm Jasper Public Library 500 Robson St, Jasper , 780.852.3652
Monday November 17th, 3:30-4:30pm Devon Public Library 101-17 Athabasca Ave, Devon, 780.987.3720
Tuesday November 18th, 4:00-5:00pm Mary C Moore Public Library 101 5214 50th Ave, Lacombe, 403.782.3433
Wednesday November 19th, 8:45-9:45am Sundre Municipal Library 2-310 Center Street North, Sundre, 403.638.4000
Friday November 21st, 9:30 am and 10:30am Strathcona County Library Unit 300, Sherwood Park Mall 2020 Sherwood Park Drive, Sherwood Park, 780.449.5822
Friday November 21st, 1:30-2:30pm Camrose Public Library 4710 50th Ave, Camrose, 780.672.4212
Friday Nov 21st, 5:30-7:00pm
Hosted by UWAC at
St John’s Cathedral Cultural Centre Solarium 10611-110th Ave, Edmonton Wine and cheese at 5:30 with presentation to follow.
On this eve of the official Holodomor commemoration, Marsha will read from Enough, which is set during the 1932-33 genocide in which Stalin starved up to 10 million Ukrainians. The Ukrainian Women’s Association of Canada, Alberta Council, will purchase a copy for every elementary school in Alberta. Contact Geraldine (780.475.5875), Nadia (780.475.7547) or Shirley (780 475 5875).
It’s a Neo Alphasmart — a very simple writing instrument. It runs on AA batteries and takes no special set-up. You turn it on and start typing. I don’t even have a carrying case for mine. I just shove it into my book bag and go. On a recent trip to Alberta for library readings, I was able to write 2000 words on the airplane with this little unit. And I took it with me to Ukraine and wrote my blog entries each day, even on the bumpiest roads. It saves by the keystroke, so even if it gets knocked around, the work is still there. And it is so easy to transfer files from the Neo to your manuscript. I just opened my ms and set the cursor to where I wanted my new text to appear and then plugged in the dataport. Even a luddite like me can do it.
I love my alphasmart. I’ll be packing lightly when I tour Alberta for Children’s Book Week but I’ll be throwing this in my shoulder bag.
I hate box elder beetles. I had never seen one until we moved to the county and built a light coloured house that gets a lot of sunshine. These stupid bugs congregate on the sunny side of our house on sunny late summer and fall days. Last year, we had thousands of them. Many managed to get into the house so all winter we would find five or six of them each day. Nothing like waking up to a box elder on your pillow!
I’ve tried spraying them with a plain old soap and water solution and spraying them with store-bought insecticidal soap. Both methods work for the bugs that get sprayed, but other ones come in swarms to replace them. This year I filled my wet-dry vac with a soap and water solution and I have been vacuuming them off the side of the house. Ha! It seems to be working. Don’t tell the bugs.
Natalia Buchok and I started our journey on August 28th, on a 6:30 LOT airlines flight out of Toronto, and landed in Warsaw early in the morning on the 29th. The food served on the flight was surprisingly not bad. Chicken with rice, a sandwich, wine, coffee, a chocolate bar. The woman in front of my was annoying. She put her chair back as far as it would go, hitting my knees, and then she kept on bouncing on it, I guess trying to soften up the pillow. The boy behind me kept getting up (pulling Natalia’s hair as he did so) and kept bumping the back of my seat and opening and closing the window. Made for difficult sleeping. They served us a bun and cold cuts and cheese for breakfast.
Our LOT connecting flight to Odessa was delayed 45 minutes. The security in Warsaw was ridiculously slow. Everyone going through beeped. Once we were past security, we found a bathroom (very clean) and I bought a bottle of water, which was 5 euros (approx $7.50 Canadian)!!
There was no announcement about why the flight was delayed or where to go but we kept on looking for announcements and watching other people to see what they were doing. We were finally checked through and put on a shuttle bus in the pouring rain instead of the plane. A man came out of the plane and told us there were technical problems and they’d soon be resolved.
We finally got on. I had a seat to myself but Natalia had to sit beside this whacko American who was “meeting his bride” in Odesa. This was the third time for him trying this. The guy had no social skills and seemed to be checking out Natalia in case bride three fell through. As soon as the seat belt sign went off, she changed seats and sat beside me.
We did manage to sleep a bit and they gave us another meal – bread, cheese, meat, and a chocolate bar.
Here’s a photo of the Warsaw airport as we waited:
When we landed in Odesa, we were met by the guy from Unitours travel. He was right there with a big sign. He took us to the train station and gave us our tickets and explained how to get on the train and he also showed us how we could store our luggage at the station so we could walk around Odesa.
The luggage storage place was packed and we didn’t have hryvny yet, so I watched the luggage and Natalia whipped over to the money exchange in the train station to get some hryvny. The luggage people were quite amused that Natalia spoke Ukrainian and not Russian and wanted to know where she learned it.
After ditching our luggage, next thing on the agenda was to find a toilet. There was a pay toilet at the train station and it was clean, although the squatting type. After that, we walked around the city for a couple of hours.
We had dinner in a quaint Ukrainian restaurant in the main part of town – Lasynka – we had green borcht – which was amazing! And perch Odessa style, which was really delicious as well. Green borscht is made with sorrel, egg, potato.The perch was HUGE, and was served over top sliced fried potatoes and cooked thin onions. It was topped with what they call mayonnaise but what tasted more like crème fresh.
We walked back towards the train station, stopping on the way to get water and also to send email at an internet cafe. It began to rain and we didn’t have anything to do but wait for the train for several hours so we went to a little lunch place and had water. Everyone else was drinking beer. It was a clean and new lunch place – and that’s what really was striking – so many new businesses serving everything and selling everything. Tons of western products, lots of food venders everywhere. People looking prosperous. Buildings being renovated.
When it was finally time to stand on the train platform, we were two of hundreds. This is the last holiday weekend and a very busy time. Had we not preordered our train tickets we woudn’t have got them.
The first class compartment was surprisingly nice and clean with comfortable pillows, sheets and blanket and even towels. The bathroom was strange. We were dying for a good wash but couldn’t do that there. The sink was tiny and with a strange push device to get the water. But the toilet was a sit down and clean.
The train pulled into Simferpol at noon. We kept on sleeping til almost noon and then got ready and repacked quickly. Eugene was waiting for us as we got off the train. He gave us each a rose and corralled our luggage. His car is a sort of station wagon SUV – Ford Freespirit – and it was spotless and roomy. We asked if he could take us to a place to eat, as we hadn’t had breakfast or lunch.
He took us to a small outdoor cafe called Silver Century and we had delicious Turkish coffee to start and then chicken noodle soup, mushroom soup and a really nice salad with local fish, greens, mushrooms, and the ubiquitious “mayonnaise”.
After lunch/breakfast, Eugene took us on a walking tour of downtown Simferpol, pointing out various historical sites as we passed them.
We popped into a department store to by a hair blower, which was 76 hryvny ($16 Canadian) – phillips brand with a two year warranty. The store was filled with every imaginable consumer item and they didn’t appear to be too expensive.
As we left the store is was pouring rain. Not a problem. We kept on walking. Natalia and I were so grungy anyway that a bit of rain was not an issue. We got some more Euros changed to hryvny and then went back to the car – they park cars all over the place here. A favoured place is on the sidewalks.
We drove to Bachisarry and walked through the khan’s residence, the harem, the courtyard. It was fascinating.
Then we had dinner at Karavan sarai salalachic which was a restaurant at the base of the cave monastery. We had a lamb soup, deep fried turnovers – one with cheese and one with meat – and a kind of shortbread for dessert. Again, absolutely fresh and delicious and cheap – 117 hryvny ($25 Cnd) for the three of us.
Then we drove to Sevastopol and stayed in a private apartment. It was on the fourth floor and there was no elevator, but the apartment was lovely. A comfy pullout sofa in one room and a double bed in another. Best of all, a bathroom with a great toilet and a tub. We couldn’t figure out how to get the shower head to work so we each had a sponge bath and washed our hair, and used the new blow dryer.
We also each had a chance to wash out some clothing and there was a computer with internet access, so I got to check my email. Natalia couldn’t get into her email though. It was a very slow connection.
The best part of the apartment was the spectacular view of the harbour. There were fireworks at night and a Silver Seas cruise ship came in. After a good night’s sleep, we packed up and headed out first thing the next morning. Eugene told us that the apartment had been built in the 1950s so wasn’t as utilitarian as some of the newer Soviet era apartment buildings.
On Sunday morning, first stop was Three Fishes Restaurant in Sevastopol. Just like Saturday’s restaurant, there wasn’t a breakfast menu or even a lunch menu. Everything was geared towards a three course dinner. What we both felt like for breakfast was some of that excellent Turkish coffee we’d had the morning before, plus eggs and toast. The cook refused to make toast – I think Eugene told them we wanted French toast – so we had fried eggs and bread instead, along with the coffee and some respectable orange juice. The restaurant had a great bathroom. It was not only clean, with a modern toilet, soap and paper towels, it was interesting, which stone walls and ceramic floors.
After breakfast, Eugene wanted us to see the panorama of the Crimean War. This was the first panorama ever made – ie – invented here. Asolutely amazing detail, with clay models that looked life-like – posed as soldiers and officers during various famous parts of the battles. Also shown was the first sister of mercy, giving water to soldiers, and Pigorov, the first doctor to use nurses. It was fascinating to see that the battle mounds were dug shallowly into the groud, then built up with basket-like wooden structures. Over top of this was dirt and sandbags. In the side were doors. The soldiers slept inside and fought on top. The soldiers were wearing heavy winter clothing despite them fighting in sweltering summer weather.
Here is one of Eugene’s jokes:
Socialisism, Communism and Capitalism were going to have a meeting, but Socialism was late. The other two asked him why he was late. He said he’d been in a line-up waiting for kobassa. Capitalisim asked, “What is lineup?” Communist asked, “What is kobassa?”
another joke:
It is not up to the host to count the amount of food his guests eat. That’s the job of his wife.
Another Eugenism, while crossing a busy street: “We’re in the right. “We may be killed, but we’re in the right.”
After that, we drove to a WWII memorial for dead Soviet soldiers. It was a long treed walk and there were also displays of naval artifacts.
When we walked around the other side of the monument, we could see where the charge of the light brigade occurred.
The we drove to Balaclava. This was a secret naval base during Soviet times and the city was closed to the public and never mentioned in newspapers etc. It has a huge S shaped harbour that fish love and it had been a fishing town before becoming the military experimental centre. Lots of utilitarian and sturdy but not very pretty buildings and walls.
We then drove to the other side and walked up to see some of the Genovese Fortress.
After that, we drove to Eskir Kamin, which was quite a distance, first on regular roads, but then on dirt packed roads with no markings. This was definitely not a tourist place. While we were still on the paved road, Eugene stopped at a fruit stand and we bought muscat grapes, pears and black raspberries. Delicious!
The Eskir Kamin cave towns were WAY high up and quite a walk. It took about 45 minutes to get up but boy was it worth it. A whole city had been up there in ancient times, complete with toll roads, a church, houses with several rooms, all within the caves.
Esker Camin
window through stone
Marsha
door
Toll booth
road
one of many rooms
other visitors
chapel
room
Natalia
holes through the rock
fast way down
Eugene
The stone itself was formed from these interesting small white snails that crawl up grasses. Century upon century of dead snail shells formed the rocks.
Here’s what the snails look like:
Getting down the mountain was a bit more treacherous than climbing up and we felt like we’d had a really good workout by the time we got down.
There was a small restaurant at the base of Eskir Kamin (only restaurant). Lots of black pigs running around, and on the menu was black pig cooked various ways. We ate black pig and one of them bit Natalia. She has a nice round bruise on her thigh. We had the pork two ways – pounded and breaded and served over mashed potatoes, and also in blinis. I had a Crimean beer.
A comfy pullout sofa in one room and a double bed in another. Best of all, a bathroom with a great toilet and a tub. We couldn’t figure out how to get the shower head to work so we each had a sponge bath and washed our hair, and used the new blow dryer.
